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PostPosted: Tue Jul 22, 2014 8:56 am 
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I'd thought that too but I've let it run up for hours and it's still a noisy bugger. As I do actually want to use the Hyperion i will place the ballast at the other end of the house and run a long wire to the lamp in a truly "remote gear" install.


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 22, 2014 11:59 am 
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Can I also double check that with a ballast of this type it's safe to put a switch between the lamp and terminals 3 and 4, rather than between the power socket and terminals 1 and 2?

If I could do it this way it would make operating the lamp much more convenient, as I can leave the ballast plugged in at its remote setting and then operate it by a switch locally.


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 22, 2014 4:44 pm 
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No. You must always switch the supply to the ballast and not switch the lamp from the ballast. If the lamp is switched, the ballast has no output load which may cause the output voltage to rise  damaging the ballast. In addition, switching off the lamp still causes current flow in the input winding, so you still draw power. It is also "bad" electrical practice.


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 22, 2014 5:32 pm 
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To be honest I had a feeling all of that would be the case, but don't know for sure which is why I asked. Glad I did. thanks.

I'll just wire it straight like I would normally and plug when I need power. Got a reel of 25m wire coming from ebay, it's quite a good deal: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/White-Black-F ... 5afe200c69


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 25, 2014 1:03 am 
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If you're wanting remote control, you can get plug-in socket adaptors which switch via remote control.. B&Q used to have a 'home easy' range that did this, and even sold a remote control with a clock and timer function... I used this system in my bedroom because my main lights illuminate the room from on top of the wardrobe, and running inline wired switches would have been very inconvenient and ugly. If you go for this, make sure you get a system which works on radio frequency and not infrared - as RF works through walls and doors (I can switch on my bedroom lights from out on the street)

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PostPosted: Sat Jul 26, 2014 10:23 pm 
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Thank you. Not sure what I'm going to do at the moment, I'm just happy that I can enjoy the Hyperion - one of my favourite lanterns - without hearing that racket of the ballast. It's in the living room where my Mi26 used to be and it looks fabulous.

Having said that, now that it's in another room I've been able to give it the first long run since I got the whole caboodle, and I have to say after around 3 hours once the ballast is roasting it does quieten down a notch. It's so big that it takes that much time to heat up; there must be a small fortune's worth of copper in it. Regarding the quietening as time goes on, I have observed this with other ballasts but they tend to quieten down much quicker, usually once the lamp has started to get towards full brightness. Mind you, they also heat up much quicker as they're smaller.

It's still noisy though so I think relocating it to the bedroom has on the whole been a good idea. It looks to have taken a beating over the years, it's got dents and some of the windings have minor damage. Still, it soldiers on!


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 12, 2014 11:44 pm 
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Hi All,

Does anyone know when the Philips L4135 ballast for 135/180W SOX turned from Grey to Redish? Or is there a special reason for the red one?

Regards,

Andrew.


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 13, 2014 7:50 am 
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No definite date but by the 1990s Philips ballasts were dark red/brown rather than grey. The new colour seems to be a better quality paint than the original grey.


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 06, 2015 9:23 am 
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Very true, I had to re-paint my L4135, as even thought it had been in a closed column, with a seal around the door, all the paint had started to flake off!
As luck would have it though, the red spec print had remained.


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 16, 2015 7:36 pm 
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What kind of paint did you use? I have a mag ballast that rather badly needs repainting; most look like they've just been dipped in gloss?


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