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PostPosted: Wed Feb 15, 2017 11:37 pm 
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How about using a GEC Z1704 (140W SO/H SOI/H) and a GEC Z1716 (25µF 260VAC) on a 90W SOX lamp, any one tried this?


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 16, 2017 8:16 am 
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Should work fine.


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 16, 2017 4:14 pm 
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Thanks again, doing an audit of all the gear in the collection. got loads of bits and trying to match them up.


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 20, 2017 9:04 am 
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Ok need a bit of help here. Got a new style SRS201 180W made in 2008 with a new style gear unit with the tray inside, there is also a nema on this lantern. During storgage someone has had the connector plug off the gear tray unit leaving a bunch of wires. Does anyone know what wire goes where? I have a new plug with L1, L2, L3, N and Earth on it. About all I know is where the earth goes. The ballast is a BSX 180 H96 type with a cap and SX73 ignitor. Any help would be appreciated.


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 20, 2017 10:56 pm 
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paul wrote:
...someone has had the connector plug off the gear tray unit leaving a bunch of wires. Does anyone know what wire goes where?


Without seeing some sort of diagram or photo of the affected lantern, can I assume this is a "plug & play" type connector which allows the gear tray to be isolated and released from the canopy, rather than something with screw terminals? If this is the case, I would think that by matching the two sets of wire colours or conductor ID, you should be able to rectify this issue (assuming the replacement part is compatible with the existing connector. The L1, L2, L3 and N terminations on your connector sound more akin to a three phase supply part, however as long as it does the job...

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 21, 2017 7:26 am 
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I echo the above reply. The NEMA needs permanent live from the supply and a neutral. The 3rd terminal is the switched live output. This wire goes to the ballast. Depending on the ballast - details on the label, it may need its own neutral supply and will have 1 or possibly 2 additional wires to the lamp. There will also be ignitor and capacitor wires.

Your best bet is to look at the wiring diagram on the ballast and work back from there.


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 28, 2021 8:09 am 
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Good day :D

I got the lamp without the ballast, can I combine one or two of these ballasts and will it work without hurting the lamp?

Here's a list of the ballasts I've got
70W MH/SON ballast 0.95A x1
80W Mercury Vapor ballast 0.8A/0.78A x5
90W SOX Ballast 0.94A x1
125W Mercury Vapor ballast 1.10A x1
40W fluorescent ballast 0.43A x1
Philips SX26 ignitor for 35W SOX
Philips SX76 ignitor for 90W SOX
Philips SX72 ignitor for 55W SOX

I've ordered the huge leak ballast that can run both the 135/180W lamp (I also heard that thing doesn't require an ignitor) but it will take a while to reach me, the website I've purchased this lamp from required the buyer to review the item within three days (should you find your item defective you can issue return) so I need to find out quick if the lamp is working.


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PostPosted: Fri Oct 29, 2021 5:01 pm 
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You can't use ballasts in series/mix and match for a 180W SOX, none of those will run the lamp  at the correct voltage to either strike or run it, or the correct current. See the start of this topic for the correct SERIES capacitor to be used with your ballast, especially the working voltage. The lamp won't work without it.


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 30, 2021 2:11 am 
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Phosco152 wrote:
You can't use ballasts in series/mix and match for a 180W SOX, none of those will run the lamp  at the correct voltage to either strike or run it, or the correct current. See the start of this topic for the correct SERIES capacitor to be used with your ballast, especially the working voltage. The lamp won't work without it.

Thank you for the info Phosco.

Btw, I've just run a quick search for the capacitor

Any of these will work? One of them says motor start run etc

Image
Image


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 30, 2021 8:24 am 
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If they are motor run then they will be fine. Don't use any marked as motor start as those are only designed to be connected to the mains for a few seconds.


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