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PostPosted: Wed Jun 04, 2014 2:23 pm 
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So, going from that then, Lo from the NEMA needs to go to 3 or 4 on the ballast, and the "unused" terminal from 3 or 4, goes to neutral on the supply.


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 29, 2014 3:58 pm 
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I picked up a Relite Hyperion 135 this weekend from classic lamps along with a Thorn leak transformer for 135W SOX. The transformer states that it needs a C= wired between live and neutral and that C= 30mF so I'm assuming a 30 microfarad capacitor.  I've found one on Ebay which is for a Karcher pressure washer but I'm not sure if it's right for this kind of circuit. I'm not the best with electronics but I'm learning so some pointers as to a capacitor that should work would be helpful.

I may end up converting the lantern itself to a hybrid CFL & lower wattage SOX in ignitor gear, but regardless the 135W SOX lamp and leak transformer will be used, probably on display.


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 29, 2014 4:58 pm 
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Yes 30 microfarad capacitor of at least 250V ac working voltage, but 20 or 25uF will also normally do and will be easier to find.

Capacitors for use with induction motors are normally ok (your Karcher one sounds like one of those) but make sure it is 100% rated - i.e can be permanently connected across the mains. Some motor capacitors are only designed to be connected to the mains when the motor first starts - these are normally known as "motor start" capacitors - you need a "motor run" type.


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 29, 2014 9:55 pm 
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Thanks.
Do you have any idea how noisy the old transformer might be? It's huge and weighs a ton, it's an old Thorn ballast. The ignitor gear in my MI26 is just about audible.

Edit: the guy reckons I don't need the capacitor, it will apparently just use a bit more electric without it. I'll post the wiring diagram tomorrow.


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 30, 2014 4:24 am 
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You can never really tell with a ballast until it is wired up.

Strictly you don't need the capacitor as in this case it is there for power factor correction. However it is poor practice to operate without one as it imposes a reactive load on the supply.


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 30, 2014 12:30 pm 
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Thank you. If my understanding of the diagram is correct the capacitor is not wired in series, ergo not essential. I thought these transformers ran out of phase anyway which is what helped limit their output so the lamp doesn't blow. Tonight I'll sort it all out and plug and pray!


N-------------------1
|
C=
|
Ph------------------2

Lamp--------------3
Lamp--------------4



C= 30mF +-10% 250v  (lambda symbol) 0,90



^ That to the best of my ability is what I see. 3 and 4 lead to one "lamp". It's a very easy config, much simpler than my MI26 which is a jungle compared to this.


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 30, 2014 5:56 pm 
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Yes lamp to 3 & 4, the connections confirm that this is a Leak transformer - no ignitor required - as there is no common/shared terminals between supply and the lamp.

The lambda is power factor, so its 0.9 ( the maximum practical with magnetic gear) when a capacitor of 30uF is used. It will work without the capacitor but power factor may be as low as 0.45. The electricity board require consumers to connect to the supply with close as is practical to a power factor of 1. Whilst they won't notice your ballast without a capacitor, a whole street like connected like that would be a cause for concern!


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 30, 2014 7:40 pm 
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Phosco152 wrote:
Whilst they won't notice your ballast without a capacitor, a whole street like connected like that would be a cause for concern!


Reminds me of the video photonicinduction did where he cranked things up so high the street supply started to dim the lights of everyone else's house. I'm going to wire it all up now and give it a go, if anyone hears a loud bang it wasn't me... honest!

Update: it lives! The transformer is a noisy cow though, it has the underlying 50Hz hum and then over the top a louder more ragged buzz, reminds me a lot of a power station I used to urbex while it was still semi live. The brightness took me a bit by surprise, thankfully I have safety glasses that block most of the sodium D emission line.


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 21, 2014 9:39 pm 
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So I got some PF caps and hooked one up to my THORN leak transformer for the 135W Hyperion. It's no quieter, even when the lamp is fully run up, so I guess it's just because it's old.

Can I just check I did it right?

Image

Image

Neutral in to the top, Live in to the second. PF cap running in parallel between neutral and live, the way I've connected it is I understand the correct way to do it?

FYI the blue wire at the top is an earth, splitting at a terminal block which then goes to lamp (metal canopy) and to the plug. I just used blue as I have no earth colour wire.


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 22, 2014 4:39 am 
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Yes looks fine. Sometimes a noisy ballast will quieten down once its warmed up/been on for half an hour or so.


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