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Vintage Lamps http://ukastle.co.uk/discussion/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=73 |
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Author: | Phosco152 [ Sun Nov 13, 2011 4:27 pm ] |
Post subject: | Re: Vintage Lamps |
Well the first one doesn't translate. J6= Sept 66 which must make it one of the first SOX lamps - SOX only came out in 1964. OE which is probably Zero E, is May 1970 which is just about right for an early re-rated SOX lamp. |
Author: | Claire [ Sun Nov 13, 2011 4:39 pm ] |
Post subject: | Re: Vintage Lamps |
Phosco152 wrote: J6= Sept 66 which must make it one of the first SOX lamps - SOX only came out in 1964. OE which is probably Zero E, is May 1970 which is just about right for an early re-rated SOX lamp. Thank you Simon, it's nice to know when they were made. The date code on the SOI/H looks a little smudged, but it appears to start W. I'll try and get a picture and see if it can be ID'd from that. |
Author: | Stelmer [ Wed Nov 23, 2011 8:15 pm ] |
Post subject: | Re: Vintage Lamps |
I've just got two brand new 125W Phillips HPW Blacklight Mercury Lamps. One has a frank on it with the date code 2G but sadly the other frank is no longer visible. Both lamps work. I've powered them up on a Phillips L5125BX Ballast. However, these lamps appear to have no 3rd electrode and there's a tungsten filament in series with the arc tube. Anyone know if these run on a different ballast or is the 125W MBF ballast suitable? |
Author: | Phosco152 [ Wed Nov 23, 2011 8:29 pm ] |
Post subject: | Re: Vintage Lamps |
The date code gives July 72 or 92. A combined mercury and tungsten lamp, normally needs no ballast at all and are known as blended mercury tungsten lamps or HWL. When the arc tube is cold, the current draw is low, and most of the voltage appears across the arc tube which strikes. There is little current through the filament at this point, hence the voltage across it is low and it is dim. As the arc tube heats up, so does the arc current, this drops more voltage across the filament limiting the voltage to the arc tube (as would a ballast) and the tungsten filament glows more brightly. These lamps have very poor efficiency due to the extra wasted power in the filament. However they need no control gear and the filament provides a red/yellow light component to offset the green/blue of the mercury discharge. |
Author: | Alpha mike [ Wed Nov 23, 2011 9:24 pm ] |
Post subject: | Re: Vintage Lamps |
I found one of those lamps in an old dissused GEC Z5590, but the outer lamp was smashed Also there was no gear in the base. |
Author: | mazeteam [ Thu Nov 24, 2011 2:16 am ] |
Post subject: | Re: Vintage Lamps |
How did you find that out then... not the 'hard way' I hope! |
Author: | Phosco152 [ Thu Nov 24, 2011 5:48 am ] |
Post subject: | Re: Vintage Lamps |
Not strictly a fuse as it doesn't protect against over current. If the outer bulb is broken, air will enter, the filament will oxidise and break, shutting off the supply to the arc tube and preventing exposure to UV. |
Author: | Stelmer [ Thu Nov 24, 2011 8:25 am ] |
Post subject: | Re: Vintage Lamps |
mazeteam wrote: I messaged the seller and he explained it to me. |
Author: | Stelmer [ Wed Nov 30, 2011 12:37 am ] |
Post subject: | Re: Vintage Lamps |
I hate double posting but this morning I received my latest vintage lamp find - 2 125W Philips Powerwhite MBF lamps. These both have the date code 1B on them and sadly one doesn't work. However, I remembered Phosco152's trick of waking them up using a SON ignitor. I had a spare 100-400W SON Ignitor laying around so I connected it to the 125W Ballast and lamp. It worked. Both lamps warm up to around the same brightness of a 50-80W MBF lamp and they start pink, not blue despite the black arc tubes. They came from a Substation. Also, i'm thinking that using a SON ignitor on MBF lamps isn't a good idea in the long term as the arc tube and lamp are not designed for the high voltage. |
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