This is the product I was looking at : http://www.hindleys.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=314.
As far as I'm aware its good for Acrylic or Polycarbonate, but best applied carefully with a syringe as it could tarnish the surface if spread too far. I've used it with sheet acrylic before and you apply a small drop at the top of the join and it just draws it in.

Sounds like good stuff. I believe the Philips bowls are acryclic. Would any Dichloromethane be suitable, or does it need to be a special adhesive formula?

I have lost faith in two-part adhesive; it often seems to just not harden, and just peels off sometimes. Even when mixed in large quantities it doesn't seem very good anymore.

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Neon + Sodium =

SOX rocks my socks!

This is all theoretical as I've only used this method with sheet material construction, not fixing cracks. I think any would work, but probably best to use one sold as adhesive (see my link in above post) as I can't guarantee anything!

How well it would work depends on how much internal pressure is present where the crack mates - when fixing sheet with this method its clamped together and then the liquid applied along the join. I would imagine crack edges are tight together if internal. If they meet the edge, you'd need to apply pressure with some kind of clamping.

It effectively re-liquidises the plastic, the two edges mix together then solvent evaporates and leaves a join.

I'm going to try it sometime, but not until after xmas. Then I'll report back!

Ah, So the stuff is similar to plastic cement which is used for Airfix models. I'll wait until you report back inkubate them I'll try it for myself.

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From streetlighting to radio, dance through the night whilst the streetlights are glowing outside.

I have had a play with Dichloromethane and bowl cracks and can report that it does work, but must be chosen and performed with caution!

The solvent is readily taken into cracks as applied along them with a 1ml syringe - small cracks around 1cm will fill if its just applied to one end. I tried on a cracked piece of scrap material and after an hour it was difficult to snap the joint!

The main issues however are that it readily attacks and melts the plastic surface, so applying accurately is key here. Any spills or spread will leave a mark. This could be buffed and polished though afterwards in most cases. I used on a Z9464 bowl and surface attack was a little slower, but a softer newer style Beta 5 bowl was affected a lot quicker.

I would say that if tested on a hidden area first, carefully applied with a 1ml syringe and even better with a 0.5 - 1mm needle attachment it is a viable repair option for Polycarbonate / acrylic. The amount needed though is tiny - half the amount that water drop from a dripping tap would equate to.

Thanks for this... Now to find a small enough syringe from somewhere without it looking dodgy!
I take it the finish matches the finish of the bowl: ie, if a transparent bowl is fixed there is barely any mark left by the solvent?

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The only effect is if it marks the surface by spreading too much, which as mentioned can be minimised or buffed out. It just melts the plastic causing mixing and resetting at the joint. I got the syringe off ebay - can get everything there nearly!

Just be careful though - like all effective processes it works best with caution, testing and attention to detail!

So I assume the Dichloromethane available on eBay would do the trick? It seems all the syringes on eBay do not include a needle. How did you source yours Inkubate?

With the MA60 bowl the crack is along one of the refractor grooves, so hopefully that should help to prevent the stuff spreading.

Is it fairly obvious when it has been absorbed into the crack?

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Neon + Sodium =

SOX rocks my socks!

I would expect ebay rules dictate that syringes cannot be sold with needles.

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I use this kind of needle (often used for ink refill)

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/6-x-Ink-cartridge-refill-blunt-syringe-ciss-nozzles-2-50-inc-post-/160712906339?pt=UK_CamerasPhoto_Printing_PrinterInkCatridges_JN&hash=item256b3c5663#ht_2587wt_1186

And I used the dichloromethane off ebay. Good luck and don't forget to test on a hidden part first to get an idea of how it affects the material.

If you angle the bowl so that you can see through the surface into the cross section of the crack, then apply, you'll see it shoot into and along the crack instantaneously. Even if you can't see, just run along the groove. A water drop size will do a 10 cm crack easy, so don't press too hard as you run along. Have tissue handy to soak up quickly if you accidentally get excess.